By Aishwarya Bhargava Chakraborty
The vibrant city of Kolkata, ‘The City of Joy’, comes alive in the autumn season. Streets are adorned with colourful lights, artistic installations, and massive pandals housing intricately crafted idols of Goddess Durga and her divine entourage. The air is filled with the fragrance of incense and resounding chants of ‘Maa aschen’ (that translates to ‘mother is coming’), the rhythmic beats of dhak, and the infectious energy of a festival that unites people from all walks of life. This, dear reader, is the mesmerising celebration of Durga Puja or Pujo as it is fondly called, a festival of immense significance and widespread popularity in the state of West Bengal. The emotional connection that people feel during Durga Puja goes beyond rituals; it’s about preserving traditions, cherishing unity, and rejoicing in the rich diversity of Indian culture. It’s a celebration of the spirit of togetherness, making Durga Puja an indelible part of people’s lives. Durga Puja is renowned as the largest public art festival in the world, with such a profound impact that it earned a place on UNESCO’s Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity list in December 2021. Not born and brought up in the Bengali culture, experiencing Durga Puja can be a captivating journey, offering a unique perspective on the rich heritage and traditions that underpin this festival. It provides a window into the warmth of Bengali culture, the attraction of its artistic expressions, and the passion of its religious practices.
Durga Puja, also known as Sharodotsav, marks the homecoming of Goddess Durga following her victory over the demon king, Mahishasura. She is believed to visit her parents’ home along with her four children, Lakshmi, Saraswati, Kartikeya and Ganesha. The festival typically spans ten days, with the last five being the most significant commencing with Maha Shashti, when Goddess Durga is believed to have landed on earth with her four children, and ending with the immersion of the idol of Goddess Durga on Vijaya Dashami to celebrate her victory over Mahishasura. It is a time of joy and celebration, as Bengalis welcome the Goddess with open arms.
The preparation for Durga Puja begins months in advance. Elaborate clay idols of the goddess are crafted by skilled artisans, and these idols are a centrepiece of the celebrations. The idols depict Durga in her fierce form, defeating the demon Mahishasura, symbolising the triumph of good over evil. These idols are a testament to the artistic talent of Bengal and are revered by all. The careful work, fine details, and dedication put into making these idols are truly impressive. The idols are often housed in ornate, temporary structures called ‘pandals‘, which serve as the focal point of the festivities. The process of transporting the goddess to her temporary abode, known as “Bodhon”, is a grand spectacle, and thousands of people line the streets to catch a glimpse of the procession. It’s a visual treat that leaves a lasting impression on the hearts of the onlookers. The rhythmic beats of the dhak and the hypnotic tunes of the conch shells create a musical backdrop to Durga Puja. These traditional instruments are an integral part of the celebrations, adding a mystical aura to the atmosphere.
The festival commences with ‘Mahalaya’, a significant day when people wake early to tune in to the legendary radio programme known as ‘Mahishasura Mardini’. This programme narrates the tale of the Goddess’s descent and the ultimate battle with the demon. It sets the tone for the days ahead, reminding everyone of the Goddess’s power and the importance of the festival. It is believed that on this day Goddess Durga embarked on a journey from Mount Kailash to her maternal home on earth. The primary celebrations begin on the fifth day following Mahalaya, a day known as “Maha Shashti”, which signifies the commencement of Durga Puja.
On Maha Shashti, the inaugural day, Goddess Durga’s idol is ceremonially revealed, and the customary procedure of her arrival on Earth is carried out amidst the chanting of mantras and the rhythmic beats of dhak. Maha Saptami, the second day, involves the ‘Kola Bou’ snan, a custom where a banana plant is bathed and dressed like a newlywed bride, symbolizing the goddess’s marital status. On Maha Ashtami, the third day, devotees observe the ritualistic ‘Anjali‘ offering, where they pay homage to the Goddess with red hibiscus flowers, sandalwood paste, and lighted incense sticks. On this day devotees also conduct ‘Kumari Puja’, the worship of young girls as a symbol of the divine feminine power. ‘Sandhi Puja’, a crucial ritual at the juncture of Ashtami and Navami, symbolises the celestial battle between Maa Durga and Mahishasura. Maha Navami, the fourth day, is dedicated to the ‘Navami Homa’ and the offering of ‘Prasad’ to the Goddess. Finally, on Vijayadashami or Dashami, the fifth day, the immersion of the idols, known as ‘Visarjan‘, takes place amidst vibrant processions and chants, symbolising the departure of the Goddess and her victorious return to the celestial abode.
Durga Puja goes beyond a cultural event; it celebrates good triumphing over evil. Goddess Durga, with her ten arms, symbolises the power to conquer all challenges. For those unfamiliar with Bengali culture, Durga Puja is a chance to explore Hindu mythology and symbolism, revealing a glimpse of Indian heritage through its stories, customs and traditions. The city is transformed into an art gallery, a stage for cultural performances, and a feast for the senses. One of the first things that strikes you is the sheer scale and artistic brilliance of the pandals. Local clubs and organisations compete fiercely to create the most innovative and visually stunning structures. The themes vary from year to year, encompassing historical events, social issues, and even global affairs. These pandals are not mere religious spaces; they are showcases of creativity and craftsmanship. This year, pandals showcased a harmonious blend of tradition and innovation. While some paid homage to the timeless classics of Indian mythology, such as the Ramayana and Mahabharata, others drew inspiration from modern issues like climate change and women’s empowerment. Some of the pandals also drew inspiration from global events, cultures and landmarks and feature replicas of famous international monuments around the world such as Paris Disneyland, Ayodhya Ram Mandir, Mysore Palace and many more. Nature remains a timeless favourite, with pandals transforming into lush forests and blooming gardens. Moreover, digital technology is making its presence felt, as some pandals feature interactive installations and virtual reality experiences. The themes in 2023 speak to the evolving narratives of society, fusing spirituality with the contemporary pulse of the world.
Durga Puja is marked by various rituals that carry profound spiritual significance. From the recitation of religious hymns to the mesmerising beats of dhak and the rhythmic chants during the ‘Dhunuchi Naach’ when devotees perform a dance while holding a clay lamp filled with smoking incense, every ritual exudes an infectious energy that engulfs all participants. One of the most striking aspects of Durga Puja is the ‘Sindur Khela’ ceremony. On the final day of the festival, married women gather at the pandals, and with vermillion, they smear each other’s faces and the idol of the Goddess. This act is not only a celebration of marital bliss but also a symbol of the strength and unity among women. Witnessing and participating in this ceremony, it becomes apparent how deeply the festival is rooted in the empowerment and unity of the community. The blend of rituals and festivities weaves together an unforgettable sensory experience, leaving a lasting mark on the hearts and minds of all who take part.
A vital aspect of any festival in India is the food, and Durga Puja is no exception. Bengali cuisine is a sensory delight that combines flavours, textures, and spices in a way that is both distinctive and delectable. Durga Puja provides an excellent opportunity to indulge in an array of delectable dishes. Traditional Bengali sweets, known as ‘mishti’, are a highlight. Sweets like rasgulla, sandesh, kheer kadam and misti doi are an integral part of the celebrations. For those who enjoy a savoury palate, there’s an abundance of options, including fish curries, biryanis, and an assortment of vegetarian dishes such as Shukto, Dhokar Dalna, Basanti pulao, Potoler dolma and the list goes on. Street food stalls offer an array of treats, including puchka (pani puri), a whole variety of rolls, and various chaats.
India is a land of diverse cultures and traditions, and Durga Puja is a shining example of this unity in diversity. Experiencing this festival allows you to witness the mosaic of Indian culture, where regional traditions blend seamlessly with a shared sense of spirituality. The celebration of Durga Puja is not limited to West Bengal alone. It is now a global phenomenon, with Bengali communities around the world coming together to celebrate their roots and share their culture with others. One of the most heartwarming aspects of Durga Puja, is the spirit of inclusivity. The festival welcomes people from all walks of life, irrespective of their religion, caste, or creed. It is a time when the city comes together as one, celebrating diversity and unity. The message of Durga Puja transcends religious boundaries, reminding us of the importance of coexistence and harmony.
Witnessing Durga Puja provides a profound understanding of the festival’s vibrancy, inclusivity, and cultural wealth. It enables you to fully experience the artistic enthusiasm, age-old customs, and shared celebrations of Bengali culture. Durga Puja illustrates the unity in diversity that characterises India, fostering an appreciation for inclusivity, communal harmony and cultural integration. As one embraces the spirit of Durga Puja, the festival transcends regional boundaries, leaving an enduring impression and nurturing a profound respect for the diverse fabric of Indian culture and tradition. Durga Puja is not just a festival; it is an emotion that weaves together the threads of tradition, devotion, and community, binding us in a tapestry of cultural significance and spiritual connection.
