Travelure
BY HUGH AND COLLEEN GANTZER
This is, largely, Veeru’s story. He is an, old friend who is, articulate, forthright and very knowledgeable about the folkways, especially the rural traditions of Garhwal. Most importantly he has no hesitation in admitting when he is wrong. When Veeru first told us about the Bhutia goat caravans we were hooked and so we went on to research the topic. Here, then is what we learnt at the end of it all.
The Bhutias are a people of Tibetan origin who in the 9th century, or thereabouts, migrated southwards. They are now found all along the Indo-Tibetan border. Their language can be under stood by Tibetans and their social and religious practices show varied amounts of Hindu and Buddhist traditions. Before the Indo-Tibetan border was closed by the Chinese these hardy people augmented their subsistence farming by another unique profession.
Bhutias became traders in rock-salt using a unique caravan system: GOAT HERDS with each goat carrying two counter-balancing bags of Tibetan rock salt. The backpacks were made of varying amounts of Yak, sheep and goat hair. Since the caravans moved only during the dry season there was little danger of the rock-salt being dissolved. The presence of such large quantities of this material in Tibet intrigued us. Rock salt is found in areas once under sea-water. The powdery salt should then have been subjected to tectonic pressure by the movements of the earth to convert it into translucent rock. All this could have happened when our Himalayas were being pushed up from the ancient Tethys Sea.
We learnt that the Bhutias decided to use goats as pack animals because they are extremely sure-footed. Horses and mules need six-foot wide roads to venture on when carrying packs or else would demand being led by humans. The goat caravans used equines only to carry their camping equipment. The caravans were protected by packs of dogs which slept with the goats but growled and barked whenever they sensed a predator approaching. Leopards were the main predators and the Tibetan Mastiffs would not hesitate to attack a big cat if their goats were in danger. Added Veeru ,“The goats were very obedient. They stopped when ordered, walked when told to do so, and grazed when their masters instructed them.” The caravan followed the lead goat who always carried a large bell around its neck. Some of the lesser goats also had smaller bells. It was the sound of the bells that alerted highland villages of an approaching goat caravan.
“What did they use for money?”
“They didn’t. They bartered salt for grain. They first gave a gift to the headman of every village a piece of Tibetan gold and some Tibetan handicrafts. Then they opened their market to the people.
Since the Bhotias had to camp in India all through the Monsoon months, many of these traders had two families: one in India and the other in Tibet. We believe that this led to a conflict of aspirations. The Indian co-family were used to manufactured garments, utensils and tools. But these could not be obtained by barter. Cash was needed. The Bhotias solved this in a unique way. They used the natural resources of their mountains to cater to the needs of the retired westernised folk of Mussoorie. Virtually all our cottages had gardens and all retired folk had hobbies in an age before TV. Bhotia men brought white orchid plants, beautiful ferns and leaves covered in crystals after being soaked in springs saturated in natural chemicals. And most valuable of all, the silken cradles of exotic butterflies and moths for our collection of these wonderful creatures. .All our collectors had to do was to keep these cocoons in a safe place and when their metamorphosis was complete, they would emerge as collectors’ treasures especially the great Atlas Moth, the beautiful Moon Moth, the delicate swallow Tail and the eerie Death’s Head.
All this happened in another day, another Age. Thank you, Veeru, for making it live again.
(Hugh & Colleen Gantzer hold the National Lifetime Achievement Award for Tourism among other National and International awards. Their credits include over 52 halfhour documentaries on national TV under their joint names, 26 published books in 6 genres, and over 1,500 first-person articles, about every Indian state, UT and 34 other countries. Hugh was a Commander in the Indian Navy and the Judge Advocate, Southern Naval Command. Colleen is the only travel writer who was a member of the Travel Agents Association of India.)
