Col Satish Singh Lalotra (Retd)
The great English poet ‘William Blake’s quote—‘Great things are done when men and mountains meet; This is not done by jostling in the street’ – encapsulates a world of wisdom since both the mountains and streets personify big challenges or goals as also a daily humdrum of life, respectively, of course in a diametrically opposite fashion. The personification above in short means you have to step out of your comfort zone and tackle hard challenges to do something truly amazing. This quote was precisely at the back of our minds when we, husband-wife duo, shed our humdrum existence and embraced something more exhilarating. And what better way than to take a road less travelled, that too in the thick of monsoons a few days ago when we packed our lives into just two small suitcases and headed in the general direction of ‘East’ of India from the ‘Westerly’ side of the sub-continent. It is a no brainer that journeys are self-taught schools where lessons come tumbling in all their hues, many a times not giving enough time to brace for a traveller to pause and reflect. That exactly happened with us too when we headed to the remote Himalayan kingdom of Bhutan as part of summer vacations. There are journeys that merely take us from one destination to another, and then there are travels that quietly transform us into a better person we may be hoping to be, but realise only after having trudged on that journey.
Our recent journey to the interiors of Bhutan did exactly that. It will be not an exaggeration to say in this write up of mine that of all the destinations packed up in our itinerary, the one that took us up more than 10,170 feet high in the Himalayas to one of the most revered spots – ‘Dochula Pass’ stood head and shoulders above the rest of the travel spots.
As mentioned above, perched at an altitude of about 3,100 metres (10,170 ft) above the sea level, ‘Dochula Pass’ is not simply a mountain pass connecting Bhutan’s capital city of Thimpu with Punakha; but a place where history, spirituality, breathtaking natural beauty and national pride converge into an unforgettable experience. Travelling with the better half and the group during our Bhutan tour was much more than an excursion; it became a journey into the heart of Bhutan’s philosophy of peace, harmony and respect for nature. As our coaster-bus climbed steadily through dense forests of pine, fir and rhododendron, the air became noticeably cooler and fresher. Every bend in the winding mountain road revealed another spectacular panorama. Clouds drifted lazily across the slopes, occasionally opening like curtains to reveal deep valleys clothed in emerald green. The silence of the mountains was broken only by birdsong and the gentle whisper of mountain winds. The anticipation among our group grew with every kilometre. We had heard much about the Dochula Pass, but nothing prepared us for the grandeur that awaited us all as a group.
Suddenly the road opened into a broad mountain saddle. Standing majestically before us were the famous 108 Druk Wangyal Chortens, gleaming white against the backdrop of dark green forests and distant snow–covered Himalayan peaks. The sight was simply mesmerizing.
Arranged in three concentric circles on a gently sloping hill, these chortens (Buddhist shrines) possess a remarkable symmetry. Their whitewashed walls, crowned with golden spires, radiate purity and peace. Prayer flags fluttered energetically in the mountain breeze carrying prayers across the valley below. One instinctively lowers one’s voice at Dochula Pass, not because anyone asks visitors to do so. But because the atmosphere at Dochula Pass is suffused with such reverential air of sacrifice personified by the Bhutanese soldiers while fighting insurgents in southern Bhutan many years ago. These 108 chortens were built in 2004 under the patronage of ‘Her majesty Ashi Dorji Wangmo Wangchuk’, the queen mother of Bhutan. Unlike many war memorials that evoke sorrow or anger, Dochula conveys gratitude, courage and hope. The figure of 108 carries profound significance of spiritual nature in Buddhism. Prayer beads contain 108 beads, symbolising completeness and spiritual fulfillment. Thus, the memorial represents not merely remembrance but also compassion, healing and eternal peace.
Walking slowly around the chortens in a clock wise direction, as is customary in Buddhist tradition, we found ourselves unconsciously matching the tranquil rhythm of the place. For many amongst us, this became a deeply reflective experience rather than merely another step on the itinerary. On exceptionally clear days, Dochula offers one of Bhutan’s most spectacular Himalayan panoramas. More than twenty Himalayan peaks, many rising above 7000 metres, can be seen stretching majestically across the northern horizon. Although drifting clouds partially veiled the distant mountains during our visit, they occasionally lifted just enough to reveal dazzling snow covered summits glowing under the morning sun. These fleeting glimpses only heightened the mystical beauty of the landscape. Nature seemed to be playing hide and seek with us at that height. By the time we left the border town of Phuentsholing after our visit to Bhutan enroute to Bagdogra airport, the exclusivity of touching Dochula pass became a lesson in gratitude, environmental compassion, spiritual reflection and national resilience.
(The author is a retired gunner officer from the regiment of artillery. Was commissioned in June 1985 from IMA Dehradun and is the 4th generation from his family in the armed forces and belongs to Jammu. Has served in various units of artillery and commanded troops in Gurez valley in 2003/04. Has served as well on the highest battlefield in the world ( Siachen Glacier) way back in 1995. Retired in 2017, settled in Pune and took to the pen thereafter. Has written 4 books till date. He is also a regular scribe of Rising Kashmir paper which gets published from Srinagar (J&K) plus writes for Daily Excelsior of Jammu too.)
