By Lakshmi Sharath
The air is thick with drumbeats and devotion as masked performers sway in a hypnotic rhythm, their vibrant costumes catching the sunlight in bursts of scarlet, saffron, gold, and emerald. Deep, rhythmic beats echo through the mountains, pulsing through the lush fields of Saloor Dungra, a village tucked away in Uttarakhand’s Garhwal region. I follow the music, drawn by both curiosity and a deeper pull—this isn’t just a festival, but a living tradition cradled by snow-kissed peaks.
Ramman Utsav unfolds as a sacred spectacle—part ritual, part theatre, wholly entrancing. As I stand amidst the gathering, watching the masked dancers come alive in choreographed precision, it feels like stepping into a vivid tableau of cultural pageantry. The festival blends community rituals, folklore, processions of deities, mythical plays, and ethnic dances. Layered with symbolism, Ramman has been practiced for over 500 years, though its roots trace back to the 8th century when Adi Shankaracharya established Jyotirmath.
Believed to be an offshoot of the Bhakti movement, Ramman is a ritual theatre that condenses the Ram Katha into symbolic dances. There are no dialogues—just evocative movements depicting Ram’s birth, Sita’s Swayamvar, the Vanvas, the Golden Deer, Sita’s abduction, Lanka Dahan, and Ram’s coronation.
The festival also features mythological and divine characters like Narasimha Devtaa, Ganesha, and the Pandavas, along with folk dances such as Gaanna Gunni Nritya, Ganesh Kalinkya Nritya, and Pandav Nritya. These performances also weave in stories of agrarian life, indigenous folklore, and historic events through dances like Mwar-Mwarin, Baniya-Baniyan, Khyalari, Maal Nritya, and Kurjogi.
Celebrated in the courtyard of the village’s guardian Deity, Bhumiyal Shetrapal Devta, the energy is vibrant, the rhythm entrancing. The Deity’s ritual performance takes centre stage, swaying in trance-like movements that echo the heartbeat of the land. The air hums with reverence as the community channels faith into every step and chant.
Recognised as a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage, Ramman is celebrated in April during Baisakhi, over a fortnight across Saloor Dungra, Dungri Barosi, Selang, and surrounding hamlets. The highlight is its handcrafted masks—over 18 of them—made from Bhojpatra (Himalayan birch) and Kemu (mulberry) wood. These are worshipped before the festivities begin, with some even “dancing” in temple premises to invoke deities. Costumes are handmade, while makeup is prepared using turmeric, honey, and natural dyes.
The chants and songs are accompanied by traditional instruments—dhol, damau, jhanjhar, manjira, and the piercing bhankora. Traditional bards lead the music, while performances unfold through 18 distinct Taals, each linked to a specific Ramayana episode.
The first seven Taals depict Ram and Lakshman’s birth. The Eighth Taal, the Ardhanga Dance, references Ardhanareshwara—half Shiva, half Parvati—symbolising cosmic balance. The Ninth is Sita’s Swayamvar, vibrant and graceful.
Midway, folk dances add layers of cultural meaning. Mwar-Mwarin tells the tale of a herdsman returning to his wife while braving wild animals and healing with forest herbs. Baniya-Baniyan and Khyalari recount Tibetan traders’ trysts with locals and robbers. In Maal Nritya, warriors reenact the Gorkha war in mock battle. The fierce Malla Yuddha is humorously interrupted by Kurjogi, who disrupts the scene by tossing briars into the crowd.
Returning to the Ramayana, the 16th Taal shows Ram slaying the Golden Deer, the 17th portrays Sita’s abduction and Lanka’s burning, while the 18th celebrates Ram’s coronation—flowers showering the audience.
The powerful Narasimha dance sees a local channeling the divine spirit while carrying a marionette of Prahlad. Finally, Bhumiyal Devtaa sways in a divine trance, joined by other village deities like Ma Nanda, Ma Bhagwati, Tyun Devta, and Vishwakarma. As drums thunder and masked dancers whirl, the courtyard transforms into a cosmic stage, where ritual and myth merge.
Travel Tips for Ramman Utsav
Location: Saloor Dungra, Chamoli district, Uttarakhand
When: Held in April (dates vary by Hindu calendar)
What to Expect: Day-long (or all-night) ritual theatre of dance, music, and storytelling
How to Reach: Nearest town is Joshimath; from there, drive and walk to the village
Where to Stay: Village homestays or hotels in Joshimath
Responsible Travel: This is a sacred ritual—dress modestly, ask before taking photos, and support the local community
(Lakshmi Sharath is a traveller and storyteller from Bangalore who believes that travel is a way of life and people make places. She is one of the pioneers of travel blogging in India and has authored over 500 articles across different publications on culture, heritage, arts and crafts, sustainable and responsible travel.)
