Culinary Chronicles
By Yasmin Rahul Bakshi
Kalhadi! I was introduced to this “Gujjar” cheese from Jammu and Kashmir about seventeen years ago.
In the bazaar I noticed white flat balls stacked on a tray over the counter in a sweet shop which definitely looked like a dairy product.
Appearance was nothing similar to Paneer. Dry and hard, slight tint of amber on the edges with a pungent smell.
“What is this?” I questioned the salesperson with curiosity.
“Kalhadi, the local cheese. Something in between Paneer and Mozzarella. It’s a delicacy and you must try it.” He convincingly recommended it.
Requested him to pack a kilogram of the same as I had to carry it back to Mamoon. I did not know how to use it and Google wasn’t that strong then.
Swirled the grey matter – marinated a few pieces in typical “Tikka masala” for barbecuing in the evening. Over the heat of the glowing embers, Kalhadi started melting and dripping down. Managed to retrieve some of the melted cheese.
It tasted fantastic. It had a unique taste and aroma – piquant! At once a liking was developed for it.
On the next trip to Jammu learnt its use. These fat laden thick discs of cheese when heated, melt and often form a crisp crust which is seasoned with salt and may be with a drizzle of chili powder. Then sandwiched in between an oven baked, skillet toasted “kulcha”.
Kalhadi or Maish Krej are the names for the Gujjar cheese from J&K that can be compared to mozzarella but is not exactly the same. It is a ripened cheese which has amalgamated reactions from people. Some love it while some detest it for its pungent smell.
This artisanal cheese belongs to the Gujjars or the Bakarwals of Jammu and Kashmir, which has become a delicacy for many worldwide. Though both the states claim its origin and belonging, yet food has no dimensions and boundaries.
Ingredients:
- Kalhadi – 8 pieces
- Bakery kulchas – 4 (each slit into two)
- Salt – according to taste
- Red chili powder – ½ tsp
(Kalhadi can be procured online from Jammu and Srinagar)
Method: Heat a skillet and place two Kalhadi pieces at one time. Cook on both sides on medium heat until they melt and form a golden crust on each side.
- Sprinkle salt and red chili powder.
- Shift the Kalhadi pieces on a side and heat both the slit slices of the Kulcha on the same skillet.
- Place both the Kalhadi portions over the slice of Kulcha and place the other on the top to make a sandwich.
- Serve immediately.
- Repeat with the rest of Kalhadi and Kulchas.
(Yasmin Rahul Bakshi is an accomplished senior consultant Chef and a food historian. A widely travelled Army wife from the Mussoorie hills with exposure to international cuisines & preserving recipes with the medium of food photography and digital content creation in the form of stories.)
