By Dr Amarjit Singh
Recently, I had the privilege of being invited by the National Centre for Good Governance (NCGG) in Mussoorie to share my insights and experiences from the health sector with a group of bureaucrats visiting from various African countries. This programme, organised by the Government of India, was part of a goodwill initiative aimed at fostering collaboration and sharing knowledge with our counterparts from Africa. However, my journey did not proceed as planned; the ongoing Indigo imbroglio led to the cancellation of my return flight to Ahmedabad.
Making the most of the unexpected free time, I decided to revisit Haridwar and Rishikesh—two towns that hold a special place in my heart from childhood. The sight of the majestic Ganga instantly brought back fond memories of earlier trips with my parents and school friends to these sacred destinations. My association with Uttarakhand deepened further during my period as a civil services trainee at the Lal Bahadur Shastri National Academy of Administration (LBSNAA) in Mussoorie. The Academy offered numerous opportunities for exploration; we would often trek down to the picturesque Doon valley and, on occasion, embark on exciting rafting adventures from Rishikesh to Haridwar.
On a personal note, my bond with Uttarakhand grew stronger after marriage, when I undertook the enchanting trek to Hemkund Sahib and visited the revered shrine at Badrinath. These journeys added a spiritual aspect to my experiences in the region, enriching them with deeper meaning.
During my tenure at LBSNAA, I was fortunate to trek to Bandarpunch—a glacier whose name translates to “monkey’s tail”. This glacier located in the western Garhwal region of Uttarakhand is noteworthy as it contributes to both the Ganga and Yamuna rivers, and the trek to its slopes is marked by a vibrant display of spring flowers in full bloom.
These trekking experiences offered a refreshing escape from the demanding schedule at the Academy. They imparted invaluable lessons about teamwork and resilience. I discovered that reserves of energy always exist within us—one should never give up but rather pause to rest when needed before moving forward again. One memorable lesson came from an ITBP guide, who, observing our struggles on the snowy slopes, advised: ‘Sahibji pehele ek pair jamayie phir dusra aage badhayiye.’ This simple yet profound mantra—to first secure one step before taking the next—became a guiding principle that has remained with me throughout my career.
The Majestic Ganga River System
The Ganga, often lovingly referred to as Ma Ganga, stands as one of the most mesmerising and significant rivers in India. It forms one of the three principal river basins of the Himalayan Drainage System, alongside the Indus and Brahmaputra. Spanning a remarkable length of over 2,500 kilometres, the Ganga is counted among the longest rivers in Asia. As it flows, the river traverses five Indian states—Uttarakhand, Uttar Pradesh, Bihar, Jharkhand, and West Bengal—before ultimately draining into the Bay of Bengal.
The Ganga River basin covers an extensive catchment area of 8,61,404 square kilometres, accounting for 26.4% of India’s total area. This region is among the most densely populated in the world, supporting nearly half of the nation’s population. The Ganga supplies more than one-third of India’s surface water and is responsible for over half of the country’s total water usage. Beyond its immense practical importance, the Ganga is revered as one of India’s holiest rivers, and its cultural and spiritual influence extends far beyond the boundaries of the basin itself.
Origins and Primary Headstreams
The primary source stream of the Ganga is the Bhagirathi, which originates from the Gangotri Glacier at Gaumukh, situated at an elevation of 3,892 metres (12,770 feet). Alongside the Bhagirathi, the Alaknanda serves as the other main headstream of the river. The Alaknanda originates at the confluence of the Satopanth—a triangular lake named after the Hindu trinity, Brahma, Vishnu, and Mahesh—and the Bhagirath glaciers in Uttarakhand. The main tributaries augmenting the Alaknanda are the Mandakini, Nandakini, and Pindar rivers. The Bhagirathi and Alaknanda merge at the sacred site of Devprayag, after which the river is universally known as the Ganga.
Contributing Rivers and Tributaries
As the Ganga advances on its journey, it is joined by several significant rivers. The Ramganga, which originates on the southern slopes of Dudhatoli Hill in Chamoli district of Uttarakhand, flows through the renowned Corbett National Park and meets the Ganga near Kannauj. Along its route, it fulfils the water needs of Bareilly and nearby regions. Another crucial tributary, the Gomti River, begins at Gomat Taal in Pilibhit, Uttar Pradesh, and merges with the Ganga at Ghazipur. The confluence of the Gomti and Ganga is marked by the famous Markandey Mahadeo Temple, and the Gomti itself serves as a vital lifeline for cities such as Lucknow, Lakhimpur Kheri, Sultanpur, and Jaunpur.
At Prayagraj (formerly Allahabad), the mighty Yamuna joins the Ganga. Having its origins at the Yamnotri glacier near Bandarpunch in Uttarakhand, the Yamuna significantly boosts the strength and volume of the Ganga as it continues its journey across the heart of northern India.
The Ganga’s Journey through Bihar: Confluence with Major Tributaries
As the Ganga continues its majestic course through the state of Bihar, it is joined by several significant tributaries, each contributing to the river’s strength and expanse. At Chhapra, the Ghaghara River merges with the Ganga. The Ghaghara, also known as Karnali, is a transboundary perennial river that originates from the Tibetan plateau near Lake Mansarovar. Flowing through the Himalayas in Nepal, the river is joined by the Sharda River at Brahmaghat within India. Among the major tributaries of the Sharda are the Rapti, Chhoti Gandak, and the Saryu.
Further downstream in Katihar, the Kosi River—a prominent transboundary river that traverses both Nepal and India—joins the Ganga. The Kosi’s extensive catchment area encompasses the world’s highest peaks, including Mount Everest and Kanchenjunga. Known for its highly unstable nature, the Kosi carries a substantial amount of silt during the monsoon season, which often leads to unpredictable flooding. This tendency has earned it the sombre nickname, the “Sorrow of Bihar”.
Just above Patna, the Sone River converges with the Ganga. The Sone originates near Amarkantak in Madhya Pradesh, located just to the east of the headwaters of the Narmada River. From its point of origin, the Sone flows in a north-northwest direction, traversing multiple states—Madhya Pradesh, Uttar Pradesh, Jharkhand, and Bihar—before finally merging with the Ganga.
As the Ganga journeys towards its end, it does not flow alone. Before it enters the Bay of Bengal, the Ganga, together with the Brahmaputra, creates the largest delta in the world. This vast delta lies between the Bhagirathi, Haugli, and the Padma or Meghna rivers. The region is characterised by its dense mangrove forests, which stand as a testament to the rich biodiversity and ecological significance of the area.
Legend of Adi Shankara and the Badrinath Temple
According to legend, Adi Shankara, a renowned Nambudiri ascetic and one of the most respected Vedic scholars, discovered a black stone image of Lord Badarinarayan made of Saligram stone in the Alaknanda River. Initially, he enshrined this sacred idol in a cave close to the Tapt Kund hot springs. Centuries later, in the sixteenth century, the King of Garhwal relocated the murti to its present site, which is now recognised as the Badrinath Temple. The idol depicts Lord Vishnu seated in Padmasan.
Adi Shankara was also responsible for establishing the tradition that only Nambudiris could serve as the Chief Priest at the Badrinath Temple, a custom that is still followed today. During the evening meal with my old schoolmate, Alok Joshi, now settled in Dehradun, I learnt another intriguing detail—Alok is the eldest grandson of one of the Rawals, the Chief Priests, thus strengthening the personal connection to this revered tradition.
During my tenure as the Union Secretary for Water Resources, River Development, and Ganga Rejuvenation, I had the unique opportunity to be directly involved with many of the places associated with the Ganga River. My work in the Ganga Rejuvenation initiative allowed me to witness firsthand the cultural, ecological, and spiritual significance of the river and its surrounding regions. These experiences deepened my appreciation for the vital role that the Ganga plays in sustaining life and tradition across India.
(The author is a retired IAS officer and former Union Secretary, Ministry of Water Resources, River Development and Ganga Rejuvenation.)
