All Around the World with the Most Travelled Indian
By Nitin Gairola
After Dushanbe, the capital of Tajikistan, it was time to exit this amazing country and to enter Uzbekistan via the land border between Panjakent and Samarkand. This was the border we had taken to enter Tajikistan around 10 days earlier (but what seemed like a few months ago, since so much happened in this mountain and desert country that we fell in love with). Richa and I said to ourselves that we still have a full day ahead of us, so why not see a few things along the way en route from Dushanbe to the border. We booked a cab from Dushanbe’s Green House Hostel to the city taxi stand and found a wonderful person, Mohammad Karimuf, who agreed to take us to the border along with a few stops that we had requested. This removed the scope for sharing the sedan with others and so we paid the price of 4 passengers and got the full vehicle at our disposal.
Just like the day we came in to Tajikistan, 10 days ago, on the return too there were dark skies along the entire route, as we went through some winding mountain roads that are a feature of the country. After around 5 hours, we reached the old town of Panjakent, very close to the Uzbek border and there we decided to stop for a bite. Mohammad had recommended a place for some juicy kebabs that also served salads (for Richa who is a preferred vegetarian). So, in we went and ate a copious amount of all things smoked and grilled that were served on sword like skewers. Richa got her plateful of greens too.
Mohammad then took us to the famous Panjakent market which served everything from fresh foods to clothes and electronics, something quite similar to the one in Khorog in the high Pamirs. There one lady shopkeeper caught hold of Richa and wanted Richa to marry her son. We all had a good laugh about it, and I found the people in Panjakent to be really warm and welcoming, something that has been lost in big and busy cities around the world. But the highlight of the last day in Tajikistan was to be our next destination of Sarazm, which is a 5,000 year old excavation site. It is considered to be the oldest city in Central Asia and the archeologists here have unearthed over 10 digs in which lay buried ancient houses with pottery and tools inside them. These are quite similar to Catalhoyuk and Gobekli Tepe in Turkiye (some of the oldest cities found anywhere in the world). The Sarazm digs have even unearthed skeletons of the royal family and there is one of the Sarazm Princesses, who was found buried in the fetal position. She had well preserved intact bangles on her intact bones, which is extremely rare to witness.
Within the site, where we were freely allowed to walk, there was also a small museum which housed the relics from the various excavations. This museum was very different from those we have in developed countries, what with all their glass casings, laser beams, bells and alarms (sometimes whistles too). In Sarazm you could actually pick up the objects and feel the past in your bare hands. It was really the most interactive way to get involved with history, although it has to be done very responsibly. Overall, we had the most wonderful time in Sarazm but then the time to finally leave this dramatically beautiful country had come and slowly we drove the last 10 kilometres from Sarazm to the border. On the ride till here, Mohammad had confided in us that he wanted to live in another country to study and perhaps learn some English and was keen on coming to India one day. We told him that we would love to meet him when he does come to India, so let’s see when our paths cross again. He even showed the pictures of his beautiful family and came across as a very liberal, good man. He was an easygoing soul who absolutely disliked all bravado and big talk of warring world leaders today and he was very clear that the most precious thing for us is peace. If only there were more like him in this world.
Eventually, we reached the border and said our tearful goodbyes before the long walk to and through the Tajik gate and passport stamping office. We knew that we would miss Tajikistan and all those people who were now our friends. Once out on the Uzbek side, we found a sharing car and within the next 30 minutes we were on our way to Samarkand from where we were to take a very long overnight train ride to the ancient desert town of Khiva (on the very far western side of Uzbekistan). We were really excited about the 3rd leg of our Central Asia adventure in Uzbekistan since we were not just visiting the tourist hotspots of Tashkent, Samarkand and Bukhara. We were planning to go to remote places too such as Nukus (in the autonomous Republic of Karakalpakstan), the Karakum and Kyzylkum deserts and the Aral Sea and Ustyurt Plateau (which is a desert too). As you can realise, I was about to come into my element with all the deserts (not desserts) that I could wish for. Quite like a kid in a candy store.
But before taking the night train from Samarkand to Khiva, we had to collect our bags that we had left at Zarina Hotel with Beka and Zahid (our kind hosts in Samarkand, prior to our entering Tajikistan). We also took the time to see a few more of Samarkand’s spectacular sights as we could cheaply zip around the town in their ride hailing Yandex Cabs (no need to take public transport in Uzbek). And then it was time to depart Samarkand as well. Such partings always weigh heavily on you as you know it is most likely the last time you will see a place or a person. However, this time somehow I got a feeling that just like Mohammad in Tajikistan, we would meet Beka and Zahid again, perhaps in India. I would love to take them around the streets of my hometown as we would walk to the rhythm of George Harrison’s ‘Dehradun’. Just search this old song by the Beatles maestro on YouTube, and I am certain it will make your Sunday.
(Nitin Gairola is from Dehradun and has travelled the natural world more than almost any Indian ever. He has set world travel records certified by India Book of Records, has written for Lonely Planet, and holds National Geographic conservation certifications. He is also a senior corporate executive in an MNC and, in his early days, used to be a published poet as well. More than anything else, he loves his Himalayan home. Reach him at: www.facebook.com/MostTravelledIndian/ ; www.instagram.com/MostTravelled_Indian/; nitin.gairola@gmail.com)
