By Manoj Pande
The Mahakumbh at Prayagraj with its images shown by different media have captured the minds of the country these days. But going there and experiencing it is something else.
Religious reasons apart, the Mahakumbh is essentially a ‘Mela’ or a huge fair, drawing to it people from all parts of India and elsewhere. And how many!
Numbers, be it in lakhs, crores or millions cannot describe the sheer emotions and feelings that engulf you as you see droves of men and women walking towards the Sangam for the holy dip in the waters of the Ganga, Yamuna and the mythical Saraswati River.
Like a never-ending procession it goes on. Those going to the river and those returning, having had a ‘dubki’ or a dip, carrying back memories that will last a lifetime. Loudspeakers rendering hymns and bhajans, occasionally taking a break to announce that visitors should take their dip quickly and return, giving space for the ones waiting or announcements for those waiting for their lost ones.
You too walk along, a part of that huge multitude. Hearing different languages and dialects. No better exposition of India’s unity in diversity is needed.
Tents and stalls and akharas have come up in this well planned massive temporary city erected for this grand event. Pontoon bridges and public amenities are all temporary to handle the massive rush of humanity. A wonderful job by the Uttar Pradesh Government functionaries.
There are tents in the mela area spread over several acres on different banks of the two rivers. There are stalls at specified locations, where one can eat, buy knickknacks or see the various displays put on by different organisations and government departments. Free meals for the pilgrims are being provided by many organisations. And, of course, the usual roadside vendors selling everything from framed portraits of gods, bangles, vermillion, tea and (surprisingly) boiled corn, to name a few.
For me, it was the first time that I saw the ‘akharas’, each having its distinctive flag. A small temple in the centre, and around it, tents where the sadhus live. Performing ‘havan’, yoga, going about their daily chores, nonchalantly having ‘chillum’, or simply chilling. And we, struck by the orderliness and discipline, simply curious and touching the feet of the holy men, wherever we could. Once the mela is over, they, who have renounced the normal life and live as a recluse, would return to their base, wherever it is. In fact, many had started packing up when we visited two days ago. Some were going back to Haridwar.
There is no cheating or overpricing in general. There are times when urchins pester you for money, or someone dressed as a baba asking you for money promising good fortune in return. The only place where the prices are high are the boats that take you to the heart of the Sangam (not the ghat). But it is nothing compared to the shameless and obscenely high fares charged by the airline companies for the flights to Prayagraj.
The police are very helpful and regular cleaning and removal of litter is done. Even flowers and other items offered by some pilgrims to the river are regularly cleaned by special vessels. It is a great exercise in management, coordination and crowd control. Ambulances and makeshift health centres are within easy access. As the crowds continue 24×7, the whole area is well lit at night. All credit to the organisers, who will remember this assignment for ever.
There is no end to being cynical, critical or dismissive of the efforts of the government. But by and large it is a smooth walk in the enormous mela area. Be prepared to walk a lot if you want to see and experience the mela. The sights of the hundreds of boats on the river, millions taking a dip, the sadhus, and the pilgrims are unforgettable. Any number of photos or videos cannot do justice to the surreal experience.
It is not every day that a Maha Kumbh happens – once in 144 years!
(Manoj Pande is an ex-Member of the Railway Board who now lives in Dehradun)
