All Around the World with the Most Travelled Indian
By Nitin Gairola
Maasai are probably the most celebrated tribe in the world of tourism, with their recognizable bright red checked cloth and their famous ‘jumping’ dance. They live across southern Kenya and northern Tanzania and the fascination of tourists for this colourful tribe is aided by the stunning savannah landscape which lends itself as a dreamy grassland backdrop. The stories of the savannah – of the Serengeti Lions or the Elephants at Amboseli are forever woven into the fabric of the Maasai people.
Richa and I were on an extensive East African safari adventure and between one national park to the other we passed by many Maasai villages. While the focus was on viewing Kenya and Tanzania’s big 5 (lions, elephants, leopards, rhinos & buffalo), we were growing more and more intrigued with the Maasai and wanted to spend some time interacting with this beautiful tribe. As it turned out, our Tanzania safari guide, Pray, said that it could be easily arranged, in exchange for a few dollars of course.
And after our last morning safari in Serengeti (and a day after the riveting lion encounter that I covered in last week’s feature), we drove out and by afternoon we were in a Maasai village. I am sure they received many tourists every day, but the time we walked in, we were the only ones. That did add to the experience as it appeared a bit less of a show, but a show it was nonetheless.
Pray took the necessary permissions and fixed the commercials and before we knew it, the ‘song & dance’ was on. The Maasai men and women formed 2 separate groups for the dance and this is how we were greeted. The men performed their signature Adamu or the ‘Jumping Dance’ where the entire group sings and the young males try to outdo each other by jumping higher and higher in the air. The women form a circle around them and start chanting as well. And while this song and dance is a show for the tourists, it must be known that the Adamu is an integral part of the Maasai culture and the jump is a sign of their manhood.
After this amazing start to the visit, things started to slow down and we were able to sit and speak with them. I liked the slower pace as the show was behind us and we could be more honest with each other. A few of them could converse in basic English so we asked them all the questions we could, such as what they eat, which festivals they celebrate, their everyday life in the savannah and whether or not they are connected to the cities. I also asked if it’s true that they still drink the blood of animals or is it something that went away with their forefathers. As it turned out, drinking blood of their domestic animals is very much a part of their lives, as strange as it may sound to outsiders. I was glad I wasn’t offered some, as it can be considered rude to say no to the hosts.
We were then shown around the village. We went inside their mud huts, saw how they cooked their meals and even visited a small class room for children (this all also seemed very touristy). So while it was clear that their purpose for having us over was the money we provided, I felt they were genuinely hospitable and their unique culture is very much true and alive even in the 21st century. I realized this genuineness when I brought up my lion tale from the day before, and just how close the lions were to our tents at dawn. On hearing this I saw the change in eye contact; I realized they saw the excitement in my eyes since I know how much lions are a part of Maasai lives and culture. For the briefest of moments, I felt we connected on a common topic – Lions.
The Maasai are a very proud warrior clan and have lived on this land for centuries. They have been both semi-nomads and settlers in the open sky savannah home of theirs. Now many of the young Maasai are also playing a critical role in monitoring and protecting the wildlife in their national parks and in reducing conflict between man and beast. We felt privileged to have a glimpse into their lives, even if half of it was a show. We ensured the other half was unfiltered by being open ourselves.
A general suggestion for Africa is to carry some small gifts. It’s a big part of the culture there and a great way to connect and to exchange smiles. We handed out our small gifts to many people during this journey and those are the moments I remember very fondly. For our wonderful Kenyan tour operator Chris (of East Africa Shuttles), we got an Indian scarf (for his wife). And I couldn’t believe what Chris did on our last day in Africa when we were about to depart from Nairobi airport. He gifted us 2 Maasai shawls – one was a classic red checked cloth and the other a light green one with the African elephant printed on it. This was simply because Richa had casually mentioned to Chris 2 weeks back that the elephant was her favourite animal. I will never forget this thoughtfulness and kindness. Both Richard in Tanzania (Serengeti & Ngorongoro) and Chris in Kenya (Maasai Mara & Nakuru) were wonderful people and it clearly was not a show put up for business. We were anyway budget backpackers back in 2012 and were not on a luxury safari tour. And we certainly didn’t look like influencers (in fact, I doubt ‘influencer’ was even a word back then).
This kindness is what makes Africa so special. Every time I land there, I just speak in my head ‘This is Africa’. This is where man’s journey started out of Africa and into other parts of the planet. And these small journeys back to Africa allow us to re-connect with our wild hearts, in the wildest continent on Earth.
Nitin Gairola is from Dehradun and has travelled the natural world more than almost any Indian ever. He has set world travel records certified by India Book of Records, has written for Lonely Planet, and holds National Geographic conservation certifications. He is also a senior corporate executive in an MNC and in his early days, used to be a published poet as well. More than anything else, he loves his Himalayan home.
