By Vimal Kapoor
A few weeks ago, I went to Amritsar to attend a function. It is one of the most prominent and historical towns of Punjab. Apart from historical places, Amritsar is truly a food lover’s paradise; it is the acknowledged culinary capital of Punjab. From the time you wake up till you sleep the amount of food you will manage to eat would be quite a surprise to your own self.
A visit to the Golden Temple is an unforgettable experience! The ambience is simply mesmerising—continuous chants, the stillness of the water, colourful fishes darting around the reservoir, the tranquility … its hypnotic. There were hundreds of people providing service for nothing in return, known as ‘karsewa’, the ‘Langar’ or prasad meal is scrumptious. The entire kitchen is run by volunteers who work in shifts and anyone willing to give services can be a part of this team. Outside the temple I spotted a tall handsome Sikh stepping out of a gleaming black, chauffeur-driven Audi and later I saw him patiently serving drinking water to everyone with a smile … that’s humility and selfless service.
When I could squeeze in a few hours from the packed schedule, I ventured out to enjoy the lively and pulsating ambience of central Amritsar. Together with my local friends, we explored the narrow, ancient lanes of the old city – where the atmosphere is charged with history and heritage, and the aroma of Amritsar’s legendary foods make you instantly hungry. The main town is bustling with energy and whereever you glance, turbans in all colours of the rainbow line the streets.
As we walked those streets, my friends and I stopped at several places to try Amritsar’s famous thick and creamy lassi and stuffed kulcha with chhole — simply awesome! Eating joints at ‘Lawrence Road’ are probably the best to check out. Lawrence Road is somewhat akin to our Rajpur Road, what with all the leading brands making their presence felt. Another thing that one can’t help but notice is that the people, even the youngsters are not going gaga over the likes of ‘McDonalds’, KFC and ‘Subway’ blindly, they would rather flock and patronise their favorite local eating joints, as the stuff that is available there is top quality at unbeatable prices. The whiff and essence as I realised is mouthwatering … reminded me of movie “Luv-Shuv Tey Chicken Khurana”.
North Indian food in general is a little heavy on the stomach, but eating in Amritsar is such a pleasure that you will not stop. There is lots of butter in almost everything, but for a few days you can forget your diet regimen and surrender to your taste buds. The common phrase for people here is that “hum Khaane – peenay wale log hain”, that I think aptly describes the lovely people of this equally lovely place.
Next day was saved to visit the historic “Attari-Wagah Border”— an iconic and emotionally charged place that marks the boundary between India and Pakistan. My visit to the border was not just a tourist trip; it was an experience that stirred something deep inside me, something I wasn’t quite prepared for.
Attari is a small village located about 28 kilometres from Amritsar, in the northern state of Punjab, India, alongside Pakistan’s Wagah. The border here is famous for the Border Ceremony, a daily military practice in which Indian and Pakistani soldiers engage in a display of synchronised rituals, lowering the flags of their respective countries at sunset. It is a sight to behold, and the atmosphere was absolutely electric when I arrived.
I reached the border just in time to witness the ceremonial preparations. The crowd was already gathering, with people from different parts of India eagerly waiting for the spectacle to begin. As I stood in line, the excitement was palpable as the crowd cheered, clapped, and even sang patriotic songs.
As I approached the viewing area, I could see that it was divided into two sections: one for the Indian side and the other for the Pakistani side. The stark contrast between the two countries was made apparent by the clear division in the crowd. On the Indian side, I saw groups of people draped in tricolour flags, some holding signs with slogans, others with painted faces, all united by their love for the country. On the Pakistani side, I noticed similar groups, each equally enthusiastic, some waving their flag, others shouting slogans of their own. What struck me most was the palpable sense of camaraderie on both sides, as though, despite the borders that separated us, we shared the same spirit of patriotism.
The sun was beginning to set, and the temperature, though still high, felt less intense with the approaching evening breeze. The ceremony itself was a display of disciplined military precision. The Indian soldiers, in their khaki uniforms and tall boots, stood at attention. There was a moment of stillness, almost like the calm before the storm. Then, in perfect unison, the soldiers began to march forward. Their faces were stern, their steps synchronised to perfection as they approached the gate separating India from Pakistan.
On the Pakistani side, I saw their soldiers performing the same rituals. The energy on both sides was stimulating as the crowd erupted in cheers. The sound of chants, drumbeats, and clapping filled the air as the soldiers performed an intricate dance of military pride. The soldiers would stomp their boots, almost as if in defiance, and the lowering of the flags felt as if it were more than just a ceremonial act.
What I found most striking, though, was the display of discipline and respect between the two sides. Despite the rivalry, despite the history, there was a mutual recognition of each other’s strength. There was no hatred in the air, no visible signs of animosity — just an unspoken acknowledgment of each other’s existence. The lowering of the flags was not just a symbolic act but a display of shared history, culture, and, oddly enough, a sense of brotherhood across borders.
As the ceremony came to an end, I could see the soldiers salute each other before retreating to their respective sides. The crowd, meanwhile, was left cheering and clapping, some people even with tears in their eyes, overwhelmed by the sense of patriotism and unity.
The Attari-Wagah Border, with its grand ceremony and spirited crowds, is a reminder of the power of patriotism, unity, and the shared aspirations of people on both sides. It was a truly an unforgettable experience.
(Vimal Kapoor, a Dehradun resident, is passionate about literature, creature writing, cricket and exploration through travel)
