Culinary Chronicles
By Yasmin Rahul Bakshi
Situated two hours ahead of Srinagar on National Highway 1 at the Dras axis rests Sonamarg, a small mesmerising town nestled at the foot of the Thajiwas Glacier and surrounded by captivating lakes like Gadsar, Satsar, Krishansar, and Vishansar.
The quaint market offered authentic Kashmiri dishes that were impossible to ignore. The rich aromas swirling through the lanes irresistibly pulled travelers inside. Ignoring the hazards of gallivanting through the bazaar and eateries without notifying Tiger, my temptations completely overpowered my wisdom. I indulged in the most outstanding, lip-smacking delicacies of lamb and local greens.
That night was enchanting amidst the sky-kissing pines, with the brilliance of the moonlight filtering through the canopy. The soul-soothing notes played by the Sindh Nallah in the background, as it sliced through the mountains, perfectly calmed my fatigued body after long hours of trekking.
Our military glamping ground was perched on a small, flat ridge of the Great Himalayan Range, offering the luxury of well-furnished, fully-equipped tents complete with essential attached amenities.
It was a true mix of elegance and peril—the latter due to the constant threat of terrorism, occurring just a few months after the Parliament attack in Delhi.
Past midnight, there were sounds of commotion from outside. The first thought that came to mind was a terror attack on the camp. Tiger asked us to maintain calm and pushed us to a safe place, while he went out to join his men for combat.
Before any firing could take place, the militant was caught. A tan-skinned, long-maned, dust-scented, and not a very tall intruder—a mule, who had entered one of the officer’s tents and affectionately licked his face.
In an instant, the tense silence of terror shattered into a chorus of relief and laughter. Tempest in a teapot!
The following morning, a brunch in honour of a visiting senior officer’s wife was scheduled on the rolling meadows of the Thajiwas Glacier. The Indian Army provides a lifestyle that is simultaneously glamorous and treacherous in every sense of the word.
By forenoon, under a radiant blanket of sunshine, a lavish meal featuring live counters for South Indian dishes, paranthas, and egg preparations was laid out. We all sat together, sharing confabulations amidst the echoing sounds of our own mirth.
Suddenly, two soldiers from the periphery guard came running to inform Tiger that an unexploded mortar bomb had been found behind a rock.
After the previous night’s false alarm, we initially viewed the warning with a jaundiced eye, finding it a hard truth to swallow.
However, the danger was undeniably real and the situation grew incredibly tense. For safety reasons, we were immediately evacuated from the scene, leaving all the goodies behind.
Ingredients:
- Lotus Stem (Nadru) – 250 grams
- Fresh Yogurt (Curd) – 1 ½ cups (not sour)
- Mustard oil – 2 Tbsp
- Ghee – 3 tsp
- Fennel seed powder -1 tsp
- Dry ginger powder – 1/2 tsp
- Dry Mint leaves – 1 tsp
- Green Cardamoms- 3 pieces
- Black Cardamom -1 piece
- Cloves – 3 pieces
- Cinnamon stick -1 inch
- Black cumin seeds -¼ tsp
- Asafoetida – 1 pinch
- Salt – according to taste
- Water: 1/2 cup
Method:
- Peel, clean and slice the lotus stems diagonally into 1or 2 inch thick pieces.
- Heat the mustard oil in a pan, saute the lotus stem pieces for 2-3 minutes and then boil them in salted water until they are tender yet firm. Strain out the water.
- Whisk the yogurt properly.
- Heat 1 tsp of ghee in a pan and add the asafoetida, black cumin, cardamoms, cloves, and cinnamon, saute until they splatter.
- Add a splash of water to cool the pan slightly before adding the whisked curd.
- Pour yogurt mixture into the pan while stirring continuously.
- Bring to a boil on medium-high heat. Do not stop stirring to prevent curdling.
- Mix in fennel and ginger powders along with the salt once the curry starts boiling.
- Add the lotus stem pieces and lower the heat.
- Simmer and cook for 10 to 12 minutes until the curry thickens slightly.
- Finish the dish by sprinkling the crushed mint leaves and two teaspoons of ghee.
- Serve hot with steamed rice.
(Yasmin Rahul Bakshi is an accomplished senior consultant Chef and a food historian. A widely travelled Army wife from the Mussoorie hills with exposure to international cuisines & preserving recipes with the medium of food photography and digital content creation in the form of stories.)






